Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Reflection: Lynching—Montana Justice

Montanans are proud of their history—vigilante justice (especially hangings), gold mining and homesteading are particularly popular historical themes. There is a strong popular movement in the state to preserve log houses and all types of artifacts of the 19th and early 20th century. There were history museums in many of the towns we visited on this trip.

Invariably museum volunteers would tell us whether or not there had ever been a hanging in town. The walking tour of Red Lodge points out that “black-edged invitations” were issued for the town’s only hanging which took place at the old jail long ago replaced by the municipal swimming pool. The Galatin County Museum preserves the gallows used for Bozeman’s only hanging. We went to the museum and stood at the edge of the hanging platform looking down into the abyss below—a weird feeling.

Those stories pale in comparison to the celebrated works of the Virginia City Vigilantes who sentenced 23 drunks, rowdies and other bad guys to be hanged. The first two who were lynched met their end in January 4, 1864 when a double execution was imposed by Vigilantes in Nevada City, one of the mining towns that sprung up along Alder Gulch. Six days later, the Vigilantes moved up the gulch to Virginia City where they arrested 5 men suspected of being road agents. A short trial was held in the street on the corner of Wallace and Van Buren and all five were found guilty and sentenced to be hanged. The condemned were marched into a partially finished log store and hanged from an exposed roof beam. The bodies were then laid out on the sidewalk in front of the building.



The 5 convicted road agents were buried by friends in Boot Hill Cemetery overlooking historic Virginia City—3 of the original grave markers are in the Virginia City Museum . The other two markers were lost to history because souvenir seekers stole them. The Historical Society has replaced the five original grave markers. A photo of the marker for Clubfoot George Lane, the first to be hanged that day, is shown above.

We visited Boot Hill and can report that the replica grave markers are standing and all seems right with the world at the cemetery. It was ironic, however, to see a colorful bouquet of red, white and yellow plastic flowers adorning each of the markers. We also visited the museum to look at the original markers, shown below. The mummified remains of the deformed foot of Clubfoot George is also on display— presumably to keep it safe from grave robbers.

The log store where this lynching took place was completed and became first a drug store, then a post office and now is a museum where a model of the lynching is on display (see photo at head of blog). These lynchings by the vigilantes have prompted much writing and discussion and are the subject of the best-selling history: A Decent Orderly Lynching by Frederick Allen


Although I am not inclined to read History, preferring to read historical novels instead, I found this book a real “page turner”. The author presents the history of the vigilante movement and describes the chronological development of government in what came to known as the Montana Territories.  He portrays the principal actors in this drama with vigor and style that would serve a novelist well. The findings are documented carefully and moralistic opinions kept to a minimum. Along the way, the reader will discover how Montana got its name, the mythical origin of the Vigilante symbol 3-7-77 and learn about life in the gold mining camps that popped up in the American West after the initial gold rush to California.




The cover illustration is an historical photo of James Daniels a rowdy tavern owner who was lynched with his pardon in his pocket. Daniels stabbed and killed a man during a drunken brawl in a Helena. The Helena marshal subsequently arrested Daniels and he was tried and convicted of manslaughter and sentenced to 3 months in jail. Perhaps a light sentence, but justice was served.

However the story didn't end there, friends of Daniels approached the notoriously drunken Governor of Montana Territory, Thomas Frances Meagher, and obtained a pardon for Daniels and thus Daniels was freed from jail. The Vigilance Committee of Helena took offense at this contravention of Territorial law, seized Daniels and summarily lynched him on November 25, 1865—pardon or no pardon.  The Daniels lynching is number 45 in the author’s list of Vigilante executions during the formative years of the new Montana Territory. Ironically there were more executions than recorded murders during this period.



So, how did Montana get its name? During the gold rush, Montana was part of Idaho Territory. The process of becoming a territory and then a state involved several acts of congress. First, a mining district was created by Congress for the initial gold discovery in Bannack. When gold was discovered in Alder Gulch additional mining districts were created by acts of congress. The population grew quickly as miners came to work the mining claims and soon there more than 10,000 people in the gold rush locations and congress was lobbied to create a territory. The chairman of the House committee on territories, John Ashley of Ohio, decided on the name Montana—a Latin word meaning mountainous. The Latin origin of the word made it less offensive to the sharply divided wartime congress than the similarly rooted French or Spanish words for mountain. After much wrangling a law creating Montana Territory was passed by congress and signed by President Lincoln on May 26, 1864.

While congress debated the law creating Montana Territory, the 23rd and 24th executions by the Virginia City vigilantes were carried out. In Virginia City a rowdy drunkard named J. A. Slade was hanged summarily for a non-capital offense. In nearby Nevada City a saloon-keeper James Brady was executed for murder while his victim lay mortally wounded nearby. To the chagrin of the Vigilantes, Brady’s victim recovered so the murder that Brady was hanged for never happened.  Clearly the new territory had a ways to go before one could say that the law reigned supreme. In fact, another 25 evil doers would be executed before the law was in full control of the Territory. 

A Decent Orderly Lynching by Frederick Allen is a very readable history of the Montana Gold fields and a good introduction to the wild and rowdy history of Montana Territory.
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Monday, July 14, 2008

Reflection: A Simple Plan Worked For Us

A few weeks has passed since I returned from Montana. There has been time to process the photos and reflect over the trip. First and foremost, the plan worked--the reservations were honored at the hotels and lodges and the accommodations were comfortable, food was available and no one went cold or hungry. A selection of photos from the trip are in a Picasa Web Album.

Traveling in and around Yellowstone Park in summer requires reservations--without them you could seriously end up sleeping in your car. Also, it is good to keep an eye on the clock during the travel days when we changed hotels. The days are long here in summer (it was still light at 9:30), but don't count on restaurants and hotels being open late. Pahaska Tepee, for example, closes down at 9:30 PM--no gas, no food, no hotel check-in...no nothing. We discovered this little fact when we arrived about 8 PM and were glad we left several stops in Yellowstone Park for a later visit.

Our first stay was at the Dude Rancher Lodge in Billings. This downtown motor-lodge has free parking, WiFi and a restaurant that serves a pretty good Montana breakfast: eggs, hash browns, juice and coffee. You can walk the entire downtown of Billings from this lodge. We found a good local pub, The Montana Brewery,  for dinner and ale--their pasta was especially tasty. It surprised us that the Montana Brewery was the only crowded restaurant downtown on a Friday evening.

We left Billings and drove to Red Lodge to stay at the Pollard Hotel, which is a truly historic hotel dating back to the glory era of Red Lodge in the early 1900s. Where we found the Dude Rancher Lodge in a state of arrested decay we found the opposite at the Pollard. The hotel was spotless and very elegant in a rough-and-tumble western fashion. The complimentary breakfast was from the menu of the dinning room and included, of course, the classic Montana eggs and hash browns. Our evening meals were at the Red Lodge Cafe and the Red Lodge Pizza Co. The Red Lodge Cafe is a traditional western cafe--they feature liver and onions as well as steaks The cafe was once featured in a NY Times travel article. Adjacent to the pizza company is Natali's Front Bar, a quiet friendly place to enjoy a beer. Especially good if you want to avoid cowboys and bikers and watch the European Football, soccer, on TV.
Next stop Pahaska Tepee, another historic western Inn. We stayed in a half of a large A-frame that resembled a tepee. The room was ample and comfortable and featured new plumbing and good beds--another planning success. The dining room opens early, 7AM, for breakfast. Classic Montana breakfast again and WiFi. The telephones were down while we were there due to a flooding Shoshone River so the internet was the only way the lodge kept in touch with the outside world.

From Pahaska Tepee we traveled to Cody to see the town and the Buffalo Bill museum complex. A power failure sent us out of the museum to picnic on left-overs from our ice cooler. Later, we found a great ice cream and cookie shop to round out our meager lunch.
We returned to our lodge for dinner and found that the whole dining room was reserved for a tour group arriving by bus from Yellowstone Park--this with the 9:30 PM closing time looming. The energetic staff found us a table in the bar and somehow got us dinner cooked and served with time left over. If you are in the area check out Pahaska Tepee. We had a great time there and would definitely go back if we were out Cody way sometime.
We re-entered Yellowstone Park to spend the day seeing things we missed crossing from Cooke City to the East Entrance and then made our way to Ennis, Montana and the Rainbow Valley Inn. Ed and Jeanne Williams are the hosts at this lodge style motel. Our room, which actually was a double-width trailer located a block from the motel proper, served us perfectly. Jeanne wove the basket at the right from pine needles taken from Ponderosa Pines.

The inn  recommended the Reel Decoy BBQ and Grill for dinner and we tried it. Great food, just what we needed after a long day of sight-seeing. The BBQ and the dessert cobbler were really special. Next morning, I ate the complimentary breakfast early at the inn's office, coffee and doughnut, and used their WiFi while waiting for my travel companions to wake up. We then went for a real breakfast at the Ennis Cafe--Classic Western breakfast or blueberry pancakes. After breakfast we traveled the 30 miles or so to Virginia City and ate lunch at a sandwich shop and had pizza for early dinner while waiting for the musical and variety show at the Virginia City Playhouse to start at 7 PM. All in all we were pretty well fed and well lodged on this segment of our trip.
  
Next day we returned to Billings by way of Bozeman. We stopped in Bozeman to visit the old Gallatin County Jail, now a museum, and the Museum of the Rockies. The folks at the Museum of the Rockies recommended the Pickle Barrel for sandwiches, so we went across campus to try it out. Great sandwiches, but the meat portions were a little large. Don't even think of ordering a full sandwich; the half is more that you can eat.

Back in Billings, we stayed again at the Dude Rancher Lodge--no surprises. Dinner again at the Montana Brewery and breakfast at the lodge restaurant. Both were consistently good. That left us some time to kill before the 4 PM flights back to California. We found nothing better in West Billings than a Sub at a gas station--Oh, well.
The travel reservations for the trip went smoothly and met our expectations. I'm thinking that that contributed greatly to our having a really nice trip.

Note: The horses were part of the 2002 Billings City Art Project. More than 40 of the horses were on display and several are still standing in the downtown area. There was an auction in support of preservation of the Billings Railway Terminal. The Trojan Horse at the right was last seen at Rocky Mountain College, being the work of an art professor at the college.
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