Friday, June 20, 2008

Billings, The Magic City

Billings from the Rimrocks
Flying into Billings on a clear day like today was a revelation. I saw snow as we passed over the mountains south of the city, and then came the early Summer green of the agriculture land, pretty.

Billings sits in a valley between the rims and the Yellowstone River. It looked just like this photo when I landed. The modern airport is on the rims above the city; a short 2 mile drive down 27th Street gets an arriving tourist to the center of the city.

There is another road from the city to the airport-- the Zimmerman Trail is a fast two-lane road that goes right up the old trail built by a rancher named Zimmerman to access his sandstone mansion on top of the rims South of the airport.

The trail was closed to all but foot traffic when I was living here. Later it was paved and opened to cars and by then the mansion was converted to a night club and roadhouse. My mother Hazel worked there for a spell so I remember it pretty well. The mansion no longer exists; it was replaced by a so-called gated community of California style sprawling ranch homes.


Carpet Decorated With Cattle Brands

Downtown Billings was pretty quiet on a Friday afternoon. Seemed almost abandoned. The once elegant Northern Hotel has turned seedy--the outside brick facade retains it's crisp look however. The old Grand Hotel is still there also, but overshadowing them all is a new Crown Plaza.

Much of the downtown has been kept up and things look very tidy, but I wonder where all the people are? Checking into the Dude Rancher Motel is like going back to 1949.  The motel was built with bricks salvaged from the Old St. Vincent Hospital, and today the motel is little changed. Even the carpet looks original. St. Vincent, however has moved on; it is now a multi-building research and care complex that covers a large campus just North of the motel.

Although the downtown was nearly deserted on this Friday afternoon, we found the Montana Brewery full to capacity. It was clearly the place to be. Cowboys in their white shirts and white summer straw hats and locals in everyday clothes. You would not mistake this for a brew pub in California. I had vegetarian pasta, very good, Steffen had the same, Ethan tried the chicken strips and a dark ale--all were satisfied. Good service too.
Parmly Billings Library

After a leisurely dinner we walked the downtown streets past Parmly Billings Library where I checked out my first novel. I was in the 6th or 7th grade at the time. The library is now a museum, but the building looks well preserved as do many of the downtown buildings.

Across from the Parmly is a shop that sells Whizzer Motorbikes and down the street is an enormous Pawn Shop-- a whole wall of guitars and rows on rows of tools. We're going back tomorrow to check it out.

Further touring, by car now, took us toward the river. We went past the Montana Woman's Prison which is located, razor wire and all, right in town. Imagine if they tried to locate a prison in Palo Alto.

We never found the Yellowstone River, we got close but Josephine Park on the river is now closed, Bummer.
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